Autoclave Repair Tips

Autoclave Repair Made Simple

Autoclave Repair: How To Test The Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil

Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil

As is true in all autoclave repairs & troubleshooting, an important aspect of Statim 2000 Autoclave Repair is understanding how the part you are working on functions as well as its location

In this case, the Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil is nothing more than an electro-magnet. When power flows through it, it is activated.

The Solenoid Coil sits on top of a valve assembly and the entire assembly (Valve & Coil) is simply referred to as the Solenoid Valve.

Understanding What the Statim 2000 Solenoid Valve Is

The valve portion of the assembly is really nothing more than a block with a hole in it. The valve assembly includes a plunger. During the operation of the Statim 2000 Autoclave, the solenoid coil pulls up on the plunger, to open the hole to let air & steam (depending on what stage of the cycle you are in) pass through

Think of it this way:

Like a plug in the bathtub, when the plug is in place (covering the hole in the valve), the hole is sealed off and keeps the water from passing through. When you pull the plug, water is then allowed to pass through and into the drain (the Statim Waste Bottle in this case)

The Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil automatically inserts and pulls the plug as directed by the PC Control Board

What The Statim 2000 Solenoid Valve Does

The Solenoid Valve performs several functions. When you first start a cycle, it removes all of the air from inside the cassette. It does this by opening the valve (pulling the plug). The air is then vented through the solenoid valve and goes into the waste bottle.

After all of the air has been withdrawn from the cassette, the solenoid valve is then told (by the pc board) to shut the valve (replace the plug) to stop the flow of steam.

At the end of the cycle, the Statim 2000 enters the vent cycle. The solenoid valve is opened, and the steam passes through the valve and into the condensation coil located inside the waste bottle.

Where The Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil & Valve is located

To find the Statim 2000 Solenoid valve and coil assembly, you will need to remove the cover. Then simply look where the tubing from the Waste Bottle connects to the back of the autoclave.

That tubing goes through a fitting which is screwed into the solenoid valve – and the Solenoid Coil simply sits on top of the valve and is held in place by the nut on top.

How To Remove The Waste Bottle Tubing

One more thing: If you have not removed the tubing from the fitting in a while, you may not remember how to get the tubing out of the valve.

The fitting holding the tubing is a self-locking mechanism. To release the tubing, push the tubing all the way into the fitting and, while holding the little ring in place, pull on the tubing and it will come all of the way out.

It works exactly the same way to reinstall the tubing, except you do not have to hold onto the little ring. Simply push the tubing all the way in, and then pull it out until it locks

How To Test The Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil – Get out your ohm meter

Here Is How to Test the Statim 2000 Solenoid Coil

In this test, you will be measuring resistance, and so your meter will be set to ohms and the Statim 2000 autoclave needs to be unplugged from the outlet.

You are looking for a resistance reading from 3.25 to 3.96 Meg Ohms. Outside of this range means the Solenoid Coil needs to be replaced

Note: This coil is a FWR (Full Wave Resistance) which means the coil must be checked on both leads. Then, reverse the leads and test again. The resistance must be the same in both directions, or the coil is bad

If the Solenoid Coil is defective, you can find a replacement for it by clicking here

If the coil checkout good, then you will want to now measure the voltage. The specifications for this coil are 120V/60Hz, 9 Watts.

While in the warming stage, line voltage should be present at terminals J1-7 and J1-8 on the main PC Board. If not, then the pc Board is defective and needs to be replaced (bad news – the pc boards are only available through Scican at this time – and they will not sell it to you)

Click Here To Find Even More Statim Troubleshooting Help

Midmark M9 Autoclave Repair – Water level Sensor

Midmark M9 Autoclave Repair Question

Question From Gary: "I have a Midmark M-9, the unit fills with water but still says water needed. If you open the door the water of course pours out. what can I test or what part has gone bad. have tried resetting the unit a few times"

When you turn on the Midmark M9 Autoclave and select a cycle, the first thing that happens is the Fill Valve Opens, allowing water to pass on into the chamber. Your display will show "Filling"

If you will notice on your unit, the display continues to read “FILLNG” until You get the Water Needed Warning. The fact that when you open the door and water pours out is telling you both the PC Board & the Fill Valve are working correctly to this point

So Gary, here is what you need to know:
The Midmark M9 Autoclave has a Water Level Sensor. The Sensor’s job is to tell the PC Board on Midmark M9 Autoclave when there is a sufficent amount of water to start the cycle.

Midmark M9 Water level Sensor

Open the Door to the autoclave and remove the cage & bottom tray. Look for a round disc (about the size of a quarter).You can click here and scroll down the page to see the sensor inside the chamber

It is located just above the heating element. This sensor goes through the autoclave chamber wall at the bottom rear of the unit. On the outside of the chamber, the Sensor has only 1 wire leading to it, and the wire is what is known as a "hot wire."

For any electrical circuit, you need a hot wire & a Ground. When the water touches the sensor, the water becomes the "ground," and completes the circuit.

When the circuit has been completed (the water touches the disk on the water level sensor), it sends a message back to the PC Control Board, telling it the water is at the appropriate level and the heat up cycle begins

In your case, it sounds as though the M9 Water Level Sensor is defective, and is not sending the message back to the board, and even though water continues to flow into the chamber, the autoclave does not know it.

After waiting for the circuit to be completed, and it not happening. And, after a few minutes of waiting for the signal, the pc Board issues a warning ( by showing it on your display) stating the Autoclave needs water and the autoclave subsequently shuts down

You will be happy to know the remedy is a simple one: just replace the water level sensor. The only tools you will need to fix it are a screwdriver (to remove the panel to gain access to it), and a wrench to actually remove the Water Level Sensor.

Water Level Sensor Tells The Autoclave’s PC Board When There Is Enough Water In The Chamber To Start The Cycle
Model: M9 Autoclave
Product ID: MIS075-1217
OEM Part #002-0358-00

10 Things You Didn’t Know About Autoclave Repair

Whether you are a seasoned pro or a novice thinking about repairing your autoclave yourself, here are 10 things you may not know about autoclave repair. Keeping these 10 things in mind will give you peace of mind and save you a lot of money & frustration

Tip: If you have ever said to yourself: " I think I could repair my own autoclave, if I just had some guidance along the way," you need to discover all of the Troubleshooting Help available to you – for free – from

  1. Autoclave Repair is Usually Just A Matter Of Simply Changing Parts

    Out With The Old And In With The New- that is, removing the defective part and replacing it with new will complete the repair

  2. You Might Have A Choice To Repair Or Replace

    Some Autoclave Repairs can be accomplished with easy to install repair kits while others require total replacement of the defective part

  3. You Don’t Need Special Tools

    Most Autoclave Repairs do not require any special tools – usually a couple of standard wrenches and screwdrivers are all that is needed – tools that are probably already in your tool box

  4. You Need To Always Practice Safety First

    Safety Precautions should always be taken when performing autoclave repairs – This means turning the unit off and unplugging it from the outlet

  5. You Need To Have Patience

    When it comes to autoclave repair, patience is a virtue. Don’t rush through the process. Take your time and do it right the first time!

  6. You Should Always Think The Repair Through

    Common sense, and maybe even a little critical thinking, is a tremendous asset in autoclave repair. Think it through!

  7. You Need To Know The End Before Beginning

    Read all of the instructions from beginning to end before starting the autoclave repair, so there are no surprises.

  8. Take Some Pictures

    “A Picture Is Worth A Thousand Doggone its”. Take a picture of what you are working on before starting the repair on your autoclave. Knowing what it is supposed to look like when you are finished will help you tremendously

  9. You Need To Write It Down

    Label wires and anything else you disconnect, as you disconnect them, in such a way so you will know where everything goes when putting everything back together – that way you will not panic when you can’t remember which part or wire goes where

  10. You Want To Stay Organized

    Keep everything in one place. Use a tray or small box to hold everything you remove during the autoclave repair process.

It’s nice to know where to go for guidance if you run into a problem. For Free Technical Support If You need it, visit

Autoclave Repair Estimate – You Have Got To Be Kidding Me!

I Have Just Received An Outrageous Autoclave Repair Estimate – Are They Trying To Rip Me Off?

In the Autoclave Repair business, we get asked this question a lot, and I mean every single day!

And in most cases we see, the answer is simply yes, someone is trying to rip them off.

The estimates are usually filled with replacing parts that don’t need to be replaced.

And The Reason For The Outrageous Autoclave Repair Estimate?

Whoever is providing the estimate, is in the business of selling new autoclaves, and they want to make sure the estimate is high enough that you will buy a new one instead of repairing the old unit.

As a result, the estimate is almost always close to half the cost of buying a new one

Usually, the autoclave repair estimate will come with a small trade-in allowance for the unit sent in, to further entice you to simply replace the unit.

And if you don’t approve the estimate, you will have to pay for the shipping cost of sending your autoclave to them in the first place as well as the shipping cost for them to ship it back to you. Then, they will add a charge for their time in providing you with the estimate.

So, if you turn down their estimate and their generous (sic) offer to give you a trade in allowance towards the purchase of a new autoclave, you are out a few hundred dollars and have nothing to show for it

You autoclave is still not running correctly

Worst Autoclave Repair Offender

I think by far the worst and most outrageous autoclave repair estimate we have ever seen is where a client sent his autoclave in to the manufacturer, and after about 3 weeks, received an estimate for $2300.00

After declining the estimate and getting the unit back, he called us for help, and we walked him through the troubleshooting process.

And the result? The only problem we could find with the autoclave was a $5.00 fuse needed to be replaced! And that was more than a year ago…..and it is still running perfectly!

Fight Back By Taking Charge Of Your Autoclave Repair

The moral of this true story is when you have an autoclave problem: you, or someone you designate, should take the time to visit before sending it off, and try troubleshooting it on your own.

You will find there are plenty of Free Troubleshooting Guides & Free Technical Support for most models on the US Market today.

At the very least, you will have a pretty well educated guess as to what the problem is, and what it takes to fix it, and you will know for sure you are not being taken advantage of

And, who knows, after troubleshooting, you may decide to do the repair yourself.

Most of our clients find doing their own autoclave repairs not only saves them thousands of dollars, and weeks of downtime, but also find it to be a welcome diversion from their normal profession.

Tuttnauer 3870E Autolave – Low Water Warning

We received the following question on a Tuttnauer 3870E Autoclave.

Tuttnauer 3870EA Autoclave- Getting A “Low Water” Warning

"I have a Tuttnauer 3870ea and when running cycle the chamber wont fill and it reads low water even though the unit is full, I have cleaned the water sensor and tryed to manually fill but won’t work. Any suggestions?

Thank You"

And here is our response

Tuttnauer 3870EA LOW WATER Error Causes

Good Morning James

First, you did the right thing by cleaning the electrode inside the chamber. Often times, that is the problem.

Tuttnauer 3870E Water Level Sensor

But if the electrode is faulty, no amount of cleaning will resolve the issue.

As the Water Fill Electrode is the most common cause of the LOW WATER Error on the Tuttnauer 3870EA Autoclave,, I do suspect this is your problem. Click here and follow the instructions on testing the Water Fill Electrode

What The Factory Service Manual Says Can Cause The LOW WATER Error on the Tuttnauer 3870EA Autoclave

Here are some other possible causes as outlined by the Tuttnauer Autoclave Factory Service :


– This message will be displayed if during a normal Heat Up stage the system determines that there is insufficient water in the Chamber to complete the cycle. This determination is made by the combined input of two sensors, the Water Electrode and the Safety Thermostat.

Also if a power failure occurs during the Heat or Sterilization stage after the power returns the system will check the Water Electrode to see if there is sufficient water in the Chamber in order to resume the cycle. If not the cycle will be aborted, the message LOW WATER will be displayed, and the Cycle Fail indicator will light.

Possible causes for this message are:

a. Insufficient water entered the Chamber at the beginning of the cycle. Check for proper leveling, a dirty or shorted Water Sensing Electrode, a clogged water Pump, a partially clogged line or that the Air Outlet Valve is stuck closed

b. A leaky Solenoid Valve, Safety Valve, Air Jet, Door Gasket, Door Bellows or a pipe fitting is allowing water or steam to escape at a higher than normal rate.

c. A power down has occurred and on power up if the water Electrode tip is dry the Low Water message will be displayed

Problem With The Tuttnauer 3870EA Autoclave Resolved

As we originally suspected, the Tuttnauer Water Fill Electrode tested out as bad. James replaced it and it is once again running like new!

Note: While our answer is specific to this autoclave, the same error warning and solution applies to all Tuttnauer E Series Autoclaves, including:

1730 E, 1730EK, 2340E. 2340EA. 2340EK, 2340EKA, 2540E, 2540EA, 2540EH, 2540EHS, 2540EK, 2540EKA, 3870E, 3870EA, 3870EH, 3870EHS, EZ9, EZ10 and EZ10K

Click Here for even more Tuttnauer 3870EA troubleshooting guides, tips, and parts from

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