Autoclave Repair Tips

Autoclave Repair Made Simple

Amsco Eagle 10 Error Code 13

Autoclave Repair Question received through From Eric:

"I have an AMSCO Eagle 10 autoclave and it is giving me Error Code 13 a couple of minutes after I start it. I understand
that means there is not enough water in the chamber, but I know that is not the case. In fact, water runs out when I open the door on the autoclave

So, what can be wrong with it and how do I fix it?"

AMSCO Eagle 10 Autoclave

Answer: You are correct, Error Code 13 on the Eagle 10 is telling you there is insufficient water in the chamber. Here is what is happening:

When you open the door on the autoclave and look inside the chamber, you will see 3 probes coming in from the side. The probe closest to the rear of the
chamber is a water level sensor.

Going Through The Autoclave Repair Troubleshooting Process

As you go through the filling cycle, when water touches the sensor, it sends a message back to the PC Board telling it there is sufficient water in the chamber
for a cycle. The board then turns off the fill valve and advances to the heat up stage.

The fact that water is running out when you open the door tells us that the fill valve is working fine, but the water level sensor is not sending the message
back to the board that it is full. After waiting for a couple of minutes for the signal, the board times out and gives you the error code 13.

While it could be the Water level Sensor is defective, it could also mean the sensor is “dirty”

Even though you are using distilled water to run the autoclave, not everything is removed from the water. There are still trace minerals (and even calcium) left
in the water

These trace elements collect on the sensor and over time will eventually cause it to malfunction.

Here is what to do before replacing the sensor on the Eagle 10 Autoclave

  1. Remove the base tray
  2. Using a scotch brite pad, scrub the sensor (do not remove the sensor for this procedure, just reach inside the chamber and scrub the exposed surfaces)
  3. After cleaning it, wipe it down with a dry cloth and make sure the sensor is dry
  4. Try another cycle and let us know what happens

A few minutes later, Eric called and was really excited. He said he did not have a scotch brite pad, so he used a rough rag to clean the water level sensor
and followed the rest of the directions.

And…….the unit is now working perfectly. The best part is this autoclave repair took him less than 5 minutes to complete and did not cost him a dime.

Statim 2000 Autoclave Repair: Follow The Water

When it comes to Statim 2000 autoclave repair, understanding the plumbing (and hence the flow of the water & steam) of the autoclave is essential.

Statim 2000 Autoclave Repair: Understanding The Water Flow

Too much or too little water can cause a variety of problems, including problems that are heat related.

Before starting, print the Plumbing Diagram for the Statim 2000 now available at and use it to help you visualize the process as outlined below

Follow the Link Above To Get a Large, Printable, Plumbing Diagram

This will give you a complete understanding of the entire process. And this will make troubleshooting any water related problems almost intuitive to you….and any subsequent autoclave repair a snap

Now, with the plumbing diagram in hand, trace the path of the water as you read on.

On the demand of the PC Control Board, the water pump activates and, using the water from the water reservoir (via gravity) sends it to the boiler. The water traveling between the pump and reservoir is run through a filter (on newer or upgraded models).

Note: By sending the water through a filter, particulates that could damage the water pump are removed before reaching the pump

Once the water reaches the boiler, the water is heated to about 135 degrees C, transforming the water into steam and, with help from the air compressor, the steam is then injected into the cassette.

As the steam travels from the boiler, it goes through a check valve. The check valve is a one-way valve that keeps back flow from happening. This valve is sealed once the steam has traveled through it

Note: A faulty check valve can cause damage to the air compressor (a very expensive part!) and that is why Scican recommends the replacing the check valve on the Statim 2000 autoclave every two years

As the steam accumulates inside the cassette, it forces the air out of the cassette (via the exhaust port) and through the solenoid valve

The solenoid valve opens and allows the air to travel through to the condenser waste bottle.

Once all of the air has been removed, the solenoid valve closes and seals the system, allowing the cassette to pressurize.

When the cycle is completed, the PC control board on the Statim 2000 Autoclave opens the solenoid valve again, and allows the steam inside the cassette to escape into the condenser waste bottle (through the thermocouple) via the exhaust port.

The steam passes through the solenoid valve and travels into the condensation coil located inside the bottle, where it is converted from steam back into water, and the water collects inside the waste bottle.

During the exhaust phase, the air compressor kicks on and blows air into the cassette, forcing out all of the moisture, through the exhaust port. Once all of the moisture has been removed, the air compressor continues to pump dry air into the cassette until the contents are thoroughly dry

Note: Wet Packs can be a symptom of a faulty air compressor

If you have followed this with the Statim 2000 Plumbing Diagram in hand, you should see where the hardest part of autoclave repair (troubleshooting) has just became a whole lot simpler

If you have any questions or comments, please post them…and don’t forget to “like” us on Facebook!

Autoclave Repair Tips: Temperature & Pressure Gauges

If your autoclave repair is dealing with a problem of either a Temperature or Pressure Gauge not registering, here is what you need to know

Case In Point: I got a call yesterday from Mark who needed some help with his Pelton Crane OCR.

His problem was, while his autoclave was showing 27 pounds of pressure, the temperature gauge didn’t move. His thinking was maybe the autoclave was not getting hot enough to move the gauge

The first thing I told him was, he needs to understand the relationship between the temperature and pressure.

When it comes to an autoclave, you can’t have one without the other. You can’t have high pressure without high temperature nor can you have high temperature without pressure

The fact he was reaching and holding 27 – 28 psi, meant the autoclave temperature had to be between 270° & 272° degrees Fahrenheit

So, it was easy to pinpoint the source of the problem….the autoclaves temperature gauge is faulty and needs to be replaced

On the other hand, if Mark’s problem had been reversed, the temperature gauge showing 270 degrees and zero pressure, the exact same thinking applies: you cannot have one without the other.

At 270 degrees, we would automatically know the pressure is in fact somewhere around 27 psi and that the pressure gauge is faulty & needs to be replaced

And what if both gauges are not moving?

Unless you have thrown the autoclave off a cliff somewhere, the odds of both gauges being out at the same time are pretty remote.

In this case, it would mean there is a problem within the autoclave’s heating system (like the heating element(s)), or there is a pressure leak somewhere (which would keep the autoclave from building pressure)

A good place to go for troubleshooting heating related problems or pressure leaks is

Here is the science of autoclave temperature and pressure:

Nothing happens until the water gets past the boiling point (212 degrees F). When the temperature passes this point, the water turns from liquid to gas (steam). As the temperature continues to rise, more water is converted to steam and the more the gas expands.

Through some sort of air valve or bellows assembly, as the steam expands it forces air out of the chamber (as long as air remains inside the chamber, the autoclave won’t get much past the boiling point (usually around 220 degrees).

It’s like boiling water on a stove in a pan without a lid.

After all of the air has been removed from inside the autoclave chamber; the air valve or bellows closes, sealing the system and it begins to build pressure. The hotter the temperature, the more pressure

Autoclave Repair – Understanding The “Fill” Cycle On Manual Autoclaves

One of the most frequent autoclave repair problems we encounter is dealing with water related issues, specifically, the filling cycle. The autoclave is:

  1. Not Filling
  2. Filling Slowly, or
  3. Overfilling

Autoclave Plumbing

Every autoclave has plumbing. That is, Pipes which carry the water from the Water Reservoir to the Chamber (during the Filling Cycle) and back again (during the Vent or Drying Cycle)

The Fill Process

On manual autoclaves, the fill cycle is started by turning a knob to “Fill”, or pushing a lever. The filling process is accomplished through simple gravity: the water level in at the bottom of the water reservoir is higher than the chamber floor.

To troubleshoot the Filling process, we know the problem has to be located between the water reservoir and the chamber.

The problem is, there is something impeding (obstructing) the flow of water along the way. The key is to find where the stoppage is occurring

Along the path the water takes through the plumbing (usually through Copper Tubing) will be a valve. The valve is a block with a hole in it and includes a stopper (plunger)

When you turn the know to Fill, the stopper is removed from the hole and lets water pass through until you turn the knob off of the fill position.

Before entering the autoclave chamber, there is generally a filter the water must pass through

If water is not entering the chamber, or it fills very slowly, there is something blocking the path of the water

Check The Filter In The Autoclave Chamber, and/or Water Reservoir Filter First

To find the blockage, the first place to start is with the Filter. Simply remove the Water Filter and try the fill cycle again. If the water then flows freely, you know the filter is clogged and needs to be replaced.

The Water Reservoir Filter If Your Autoclave Has One, Can be Tested, The Same Way. Remove the Filter and See If Water Makes It’s Way To The Chamber

Note: Resist the temptation to run the autoclave without the filter. It can very quickly cause other, more serious problems. The filters for all autoclaves are inexpensive and easily replaced.

Tip: Perform Preventative Maintenance On A Regular Basis To Avoid Problems

And, this is one problem you will never experience if you are following normal Preventative Maintenance Procedures for your autoclave on a regular basis……which includes replacing the filter(s) every 12 months (6 months if your autoclave is used a lot).

Discover more Preventative Maintenance Tips By Clicking Here

The Fill Valve On Your Autoclave

If removing the filter does not solve the filling problem (slow filling or not filling at all) then, the Fill Valve is the next thing to look at.

As stated above, the Fill Valve operates by plugging and unplugging the hole in the valve.

If water is not being allowed to pass through or is obstructed, disassemble the fill valve, clean the components and wipe out the orifice with a lint free cloth to remove any debris

Reassemble the valve and try the Fill Cycle again. If it still does not work properly, and you are sure there are no obstructions in the tubing (see below), repair or replace the valve

Clean Out The Pipes

If the valve and the filter(s) are not the issue: starting with the water reservoir, you will need to disconnect the plumbing at each connection and see if water will pass through the tubing

If water passes through the tubing freely, continue to trace the line through each connection until you find the blockage and then remove the obstruction. has a great Cleaning Brush Kit you can use to clean the lines

Clogged tubing is an issue that also can be prevented with normal maintenance (cleaning with an approved cleaning solution) on a regular basis

Lastly, if the autoclave is overfilling, it is caused by one of two things:

  1. The Fill or Vent Valve is stuck open – Disassemble the valves and clean, repair or replace as instructed above
  2. The Condensation Coil (inside the Water Reservoir) has a pin hole in it – To determine if this is the issue, run a cycle and watch the condensation coil. If you see tiny bubbles coming from anywhere along the coil, then there is a pinhole in it (the hole is located where the bubbles originate from) and the coil will need to be replaced. If the condensation coil has a hole in it, the autoclave will generally fill the chamber overnight (or any time it is shut down for an extended period of time)

Why Is the Statim 2000 Autoclave Keypad Not Responding?

When the keypad on your Statim 2000 Autoclave doesn’t respond when you depress a button, here is what you need to know

How to Test The Statim 2000 Autoclave Keypad

As autoclave repair goes, testing the keypad on the Statim 2000 autoclave is one of the easiest to do

The test is both simple and straightforward

If the LCD Display is working, and you touch a button on the keypad and the display does not change to reflect your selection, then the cause is one of two things:

  1. The connection on the ribbon cable from the keypad, connecting it to the PC Board. has worked its way loose, or
  2. The keypad is defective

You can remove the cover and make sure the keypad connector is fully plugged into the board.

Here is Where You Statim 2000 Cables Connect

Make sure the cable is fully seated, then with the cover on it’s side, try it again. If still no response, then the keypad is defective.

That’s it!

Once you have determined the keypad is defective, you will need to replace it.

And, when you know how, replacing the keypad is pretty simple as well. You can Click Here for easy to follow, Step-By-Step instructions on “How to Replace the Statim 2000 Keypad.”

If you are disappointed that the test is as simple as it is, and you have an ohm meter you have been dying to use, continue reading and we will walk you through the “technical test”

You will need a second person to push the buttons for this test

First, you will need to remove the cover and unplug the autoclave. Set your meter to the ohms scale (usually the area on your meter marked in green)

With the keypad plugged in, touch one probe from your meter to the “Ground” pin as shown in the picture below. Then touch the other probe to the unwrapped pin.

Here is where you place the ohm meter probes to test the Statim 2000 Keypad

Note: As shown in the picture above, the pins used in this test are located above where the cable plugs in

While holding the probes from your meter in place, have someone push the Unwrapped button on the keypad while you watch the meter.

The state (readout) on the meter should change. If it doesn’t, then the keypad is bad.

Then, continue on, trying each cycle while you keep the one probe on the ground point and just move the other probe to the next cycle point in line.

If at any point during the test, the state does not change on your meter, then the keypad is defective and needs to be replaced

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