Autoclave Repair Tips

Are the packs coming out wet after the end of the cycle from your Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave?

Finding and fixing the problem is something you can do and won’t cost you much, if anything at all

If your Delta Autoclave is maintaining pressure and temperature at the proper levels throughout the cycle, but the packs are coming out wet, here is where to start

1. Examine The Load You Are Placing In The Delta Chamber. Break the load into fewer or smaller packs (or wraps)and try another cycle
2. Be Sure You Are Cracking The Door Open About An Inch During The Drying Cycle As Per Pelton Crane’s Recommendations
3. Check The Position Of The Fill Line Filter. The Delta Fill Line Filter is located in the rear of the chamber close to the bottom. Adjust the fill line filter by turning it until it is located in the center of the chamber close to the bottom of the floor. If it is already in the correct spot, you will need to change the filter

The Fill Line Filter is considered a normal preventative maintenance item on the Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave and Pelton Crane recommends replacing the In LIne Filter at least once every 12 months

Best Practice Is To Replace The Fill Line Filter in Your Delta Autoclave At The Same Time You Replace Your Door Gasket And To Always Have A Spare Filter On Hand

If none of the above cures your wet pack problem on your Delta Autoclave, post here and we will be happy to tell you what steps you need to take next

For Even More Free Autoclave Repair Information For Your Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave, visit AllClaveParts.com

Wally

www.AllClaveParts.com

“Pleton Crane Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

If you suspect the Heating Element on your Midmark M7 autoclave is no longer functioning properly, there is a simple test you can peform to know for sure.

This Test consists of measuring the amount of resistance in your Midmark M7 Autoclave Heating Element. You will need A Volt/OHM Meter To Perform This Test. Don’t Worry, You Don’t have To Be A Electrician To Use The Meter

To Test Your Midmark M7 Autoclave Heater, Just follow these simple Step-By-Step instructions:

WARNING – POWER MUST NOT BE PRESENT WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST
1. Turn The Midmark M7 Off & Unplug It From The Wall Receptacle
2. Drain The Reservoir
3. Turn The Midmark M7 On It’s Side To Gain Access To The Access Panel Located On The Bottom Of The Midmark M7 (#3)
4. Remove The Access Panel By Removing The Screw(s) Holding It In Place (#2)



5. Locate The Heating Element Terminals (#8) & Remove The Wire Quick Connects (#7) By Pulling Them Off (DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES-PULL ON THE METAL CONNECTORS)

TIP: Mark The Wires So You Know Which Wire Goes To Which Terminal

6. Set Your Volt/Ohm Meter To 200 In The Ohms Section of Your Meter (200 – NOT 200k)
7. Place The Tip Of Each Probe To Each Terminal (#8) (It Does Not Matter Which Color Probe Goes Where)
8. Now Look At The Reading On Your Meter. For The Midmark M7 Heating Element To Be Good, The Reading Needs To Be Somewhere Between 10.80 and 13.20 Ohms). If Your Reading Is Outside Of This Range, The Midmark M7 Heating Element Is Defective and Needs To Be Replaced. If Your Reading Is Within The Range, It Is Good & Not The Source Of Your Problem

For Even More Free Repair Help, Visit AllClaveParts.com

Wally

AllClaveParts.com

“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

Ps. Be sure to download the Free Midmark M7 Autoclave Factory Service Manual. It’s the real thing and the one technicans world-wide use.

When your Statim 2000 Autoclave displays the “Cycle Fault 16″ error code, it is telling you that the steam generator (boiler) temperature went above 171&deg C during the heat up phase of the cycle.

This condition is generally caused from water not reaching the boiler.

The Statim 2000 Autoclave is designed so water is sent to the boiler from the water reservoir, by an electric water pump designed especially for the Statim 2000 Autoclave.

While Cycle Fault 16 on your Statim 2000 Autoclave could mean your water pump is now defective, it is most often caused simply from the water filters being clogged.

These filters are located on both sides of the water pump on the Statim 2000 autoclave. Cleaning the filters is not difficult and something you should be able to do on your own. This is how we do it……..

To clean the Statim 2000 Autoclave Filters, you must first remove the fittings housing them.

Tools Required:

1. Wrenches (3/8, 7/16, 9/16 and 5/8)
2. (1) Pair Hemostats: To Clamp Water Line Tubing between Reservoir &amp Water Pump (or you can drain the Reservoir)
3. (1) Phillips Screwdriver (To Remove Statim 2000 Autoclave Cabinet Housing)

Tools Recommended:

• Statim 2000 Extension Test Cable.

Parts Needed: None

Start by removing the housing cover.

1. Remove the Statim 2000 Autoclave Cassette and set it aside
2. Using the Phillips Screwdriver, remove the 4 screws from the sides (2 on each side) by turning them in a counter-clockwise direction
3. Again, using the Phillips Screwdriver, remove the 3 screws from the rear of the cabinet (one on each side of the compressor and one on the opposite end)
4. Set the screws aside in a safe place
5. Lift up on the rear of the Statim 2000 Autoclave housing and slide it forward gently. Once cleared, you can pick it up and set it on it’s side (be careful, there are ribbon cables connected..this is where the Statim 2000 Extension Test Cable comes in handy

Start with the end of the Statim 2000 Autoclave water pump with the larger (gray) tubing connecting to the reservoir.

1. Use hemostats to clamp the line to stop the water from flowing, and then pull the water line tube off of the pump
2. Fit the 5/8 open-end wrench onto the flats of the white plastic fitting (Do Not Attempt To Turn The White Plastic Fitting) and the 9/16 onto the brass nut. Turn the nut counter-clockwise while holding the plastic nut in place.

The Statim 2000 Autcolave screen is located inside the fitting. Do not attempt to remove the screen from the fitting. Remove the white o-ring and set it aside so you do not lose it. Set the fitting aside.

Now go to the other end of the Statim water pump.

3. Remove nut with the small diameter tubing from the elbow with a 3/8 open end wrench by turning it counter-clockwise.
4. Place a 5/8 open end wrench on the nut under the bracket that the elbow screws into. Now place the 7/16 wrench on the elbow and turn it in a counter-clockwise direction.

   
   (Warning: Be Careful Not To Move, Disconnect, Hit Or Otherwise Damage The Silver Colored Tube. This Is The Statim 2000 Autoclave Thermocouple And Has Glass On The Inside. If it is damaged, you will have to send it to the factory for replacement)
   

   Tip: If the elbow will not turn, remove the larger wrench from the fitting and turn the elbow counter-clockwise. Once removed, then using the two wrenches, separate the elbow from the fitting. The screen is located on top of the elbow. Do not attempt to remove it. Remove the white o-ring and set it with the other one you just removed from the other fitting.

5. Place the fittings into the ultrasonic cleaner and give it a chance to clean them thoroughly. Rinse well and blow out the excess water.

Once clean, reinstall the fittings and reconnect the tubing.

Put in a Statim 2000 Autoclave Cassette and run a cycle.

If Cycle Fault 16 does not return to the display, you have fixed the problem! Remove the Statim Autoclave Cassette, re-install the cabinet and put it back to work! If it does return, you will need to test the water pump

Note: If you had sent your Statim 2000 Autoclave off for repair of this problem , it would have cost you $1400 + shipping in both directions, and you would have had to wait a minimum of 30 days to get it back!
You just repaired your Statim 2000 Autoclave in a matter of minutes and it didn’t cost you a penny!

Wally

www.AllClaveParts.com

“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

How To Isolate Leaks & Take Corrective Action on The Tuttnauer M, MK, and Valueclave Sterilizers.

If your Tuttnauer Autoclave is Leaking around the door, you will not be able to reach or maintain the proper temperature or pressure.


If not corrected, continued use of the Tuttnauer Autoclave in this condition puts additional stress on other components, and can lead to a host of other problems.

Worse yet, Sterilization Will Not Take Place

You can quickly determine if the problem is a faulty Door Gasket or the Door Bellows is a simple and straightforward procedure. This is something you can do on your own, No Autoclave Technician Needed.

Start by visually checking the Chamber Door Gasket for any steam leaks, hissing, or water bubbles at the Door Bellows.

If steam is leaking at the Tuttnauer door closing device, then rotate the Door Gasket 180° to see if the leak follows it.

If the leak follows the Door Gasket, then replace the Gasket. If the leak does not follow the Door Gasket, then replace the Door Bellows.

Tuttnauer recommends the Door Gasket be replaced every 12 months. When was the last time you replaced your Door Gasket?

Replacing the Door Bellows at the same time as the Door Gasket is considered to be a Tuttnauer Preventative Maintenance Routine Best Practice

Properly maintaining your Tuttnauer Autoclave can lead to many years of trouble free service and significantly increase its lifespan

Wally

www.AllClaveParts.com
“Tuttnauer Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

If you are experiencing heat related problems with your Pelton Crane HP Autoclave, the odds are pretty good you have a faulty heating element.  Here is how to know for sure

The Pelton Crane HP originally had 2 heating elements, rated at 800 watts each. Testing them is simple and something you can do.

How To Test  The Original Pelton Crane  HP 800 Watt Heating Elements

This test consists of measuring the amount of resistance in the element. To do this, first, turn the autoclave off and unplug it from the wall

WARNING: CURRENT MUST NOT BE PRESENT WHEN MEASURING RESISTANCE.

You will need a volt/ohm meter to conduct this test.  The volt/ohm meter doesn’t have to be anything fancy or expensive.  You can get one for less than $20.00  from Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc

Disconnect the wires from the Pelton HP autoclave heating elements so you don’t get a false reading.  Mark the wires so you know which wire went where, so when you complete the test, you can hook them back up correctly and quickly.

Set your volt/ohm meter on 200 ohms (200 NOT 200k). The ohms range is located within the Omega (Ω)(look for this symbol) section of your meter. It is also the area with “k” ranges (ie: 2000k,. 200k, 20K and then 2000, 200).

It doesn’t matter which color probe goes where.   Be sure to test both elements.

The range you are looking for is 16.2 – 19.8 ohms.  If  the readings on your elements are outside of this range, then they are faulty and need to be replaced.

The original 800 watt heating elements on the Pelton Crane HP Autoclave have been replaced with a single 1600 watt element.  So, even if just one is bad, you will need to remove and discard both of them. 

But don’t do it just yet.  Leave them connected until you have the new HP replacement heating element in hand.  This will greatly simplify the installation process and eliminate any confusion over the wiring of the new element

And, don’t be confused when connecting the wires to  the new element.  The old elements had 4 wires and the new element has only 2 terminals. Simply look at  it as though the second element didn’t exist. 

 The two wires on the left become a single wire on the left and the 2 wires on the right become a single wire on the right

Your Pelton Crane HP Autoclave is a true classic, and you have just added a few more years to it’s life !

 Wally
www.AllClaveParts.com
“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”