Autoclave Repair Tips

Autoclave Repair Made Simple

Tuttnauer Autoclave Air Jet Valve….. Black Top or Red Top?

What Does it Mean and … If the Color Is Missing … How Do You Know Which One to Get?

There is nothing more frustrating than to buy a part for your autoclave, and when you get it…it turns out to be the wrong thing

The Black Top and Red Top designation on Tuttnauer Air Jet Valves is a quick way for Tuttnauer Autoclave Repair Technicians (& now you) to know which
valve your autoclave uses

Tuttnauer Safety Valve Holder Assembly

For quick identification purposes, they simply put a small blob of paint (red or black) on the hex head

It is important to note, even though your particular model may call for a specific color valve, it does not mean it is the one used in your autoclave, and here is why:

If during production, they were out of the correct valve for a particular unit, they would simply substitute the entire Saftey Valve Holder assembly with whatever they had on hand

What makes them different is the width of the end that has the threads on it that screw into
the safety valve holder. Buy the wrong one and it will not fit. So, if the color is missing, you must take the time to identify the correct valve for your Tuttnauer Autoclave.

How To Know You Are Getting the Right Air Jet Valve for Your Tuttnauer Autoclave

The air jet valve is located inside the water reservoir and is screwed into the side of the safety valve holder. Just look for the small hand grenade style ring

You will need a 10mm wrench to remove the valve. Simply unscrew the valve by turning it counterclockwise

Once removed, use a ruler, a tape measure, or calipers and measure across the bottom of the end with the threads

If it measures 0.375 (3/8) inch, it is a Black Top (Click Here & find the one for your model). If it measures 0.25 (1/4) inch, it is a Red Top (Click Here & find the one for your model)

Black Top 1/8-28 BSP

The description for the Black Top Air Jet Valve is kind of counterintuitive. It reads 1/8-28 BSP thread. At first glance, you just notice the 1/8 and
presume that means it is 1/8" in diameter. Wrong. I have to admit, I made this mistake myself.

The 1/8 is designating the thread size, not the diameter and the 28 indicates the "thread pitch" (or angle), and the BSP means "British Standard Pipe"

While others who do not fully understand, or do not want you to attempt the repair, will tell you that you need a thread gauge in order to know for sure which Tuttnauer Air Jet Valve you need, the truth is you don’t.

Following the directions above, you simply need a ruler

You see, when we say "Autoclave Repair Made Simple" ™, we really mean it!

Visit for a full line of Tuttnauer Autoclave Repair Parts, and Free Technical Support!

Statim 2000 – Water Quality Is Not Acceptable

What To Do When Your Statim 2000 Autoclave Tells You The Water Quality is Not Acceptable

Here is a transcript of an email conversation we had with a client regarding her Statim 2000 Autoclave

On 4/23/2014 9:31 AM, Leone wrote

Question"Good Morning, my name is Leone from a dental office. We
use a Statim 2000, and we accidentally put in Spring Water instead of Distilled

The statim notified us that it was the wrong water and would not begin the
cycle. We drained the water and replaced it with Distilled but it is still
saying it is the wrong water and will not run the cycle.

How can we remedy this?

Thank you,


On Wed, Apr 23, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Wally wrote:

Answer This happens more than you might think. At the supermarkets & most stores, the Spring Water is located on the same shelves as the Distilled Water, and the labels are pretty similar.
And, most people think it is the same thing, when it is not

For you to get this kind of error means your Statim 2000 is equipped with a Water Quality Sensor, and the autoclave can definitely tell the difference between the two.
You would not think the problem would show up with the first use of the spring water, but the sensor is very sensitive and will not allow the water to go through the

The sensor is located inside the water reservoir. Remove the lid and look inside the reservoir, and you will see 2 pins. The pins are part of the Water Quality Sensor Assembly

Now that you know where the Sensor is located, here is what you need to do

  1. First, start by draining the water from the reservoir
  2. Then try cleaning the pins with alcohol using a long handle Q tip (Since you are a dental office, the swabs you use to apply numbing agents will work perfectly)
  3. Allow the pins to dry
  4. Refill the water reservoir with distilled water and try again. The problem should go away

If you have any questions, please just let me know


Ps. To keep from running into this problem ever again, you might want to keep a Water Quality Sensor (Click Here to See It) on hand, where you can test the quality of the water before you use it

On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 9:39 AM, Wally wrote:

Question: Just checking, did you get the Water Quality Not Acceptable issue on your Statim 2000 autoclave resolved?


On 4/24/2014 8:45 AM, Leone wrote:

Answer: Yes We Did!

Thank you so much, your advice worked perfectly. I appreciate your prompt response to me email. All the best to you


Leone Saved the Cost of a Service Call For The Statim 2000 Autoclave Repair

Leone is from New York, and our understanding is that the normal charge for her office is $150.00 for an autoclave repair tech to come by and take a look

And, she would have had to wait for the tech to work it into his schedule and get there. As a result, in addition to the $150.00, she would have suffered a considerable amount of down time, even if he would have arrived on the same day

But with our help, she got it up and running in a matter of minutes….and it cost her nothing!

For More Great Help Troubleshooting Your Statim 2000 Autoclave, visit

Midmark M11 Error Code E001

Just received an email with a Midmark M11 Autoclave Repair question. I get so excited when someone asks for our help.

It gives me the opportunity to work with someone new, and allows me the luxury of examining a problem from someone else’s perspective…..forcing me to look at it in a different way.

Here is the email I received:

I have a Midmark M11 Ultraclave and after our monthly cleaning we keep getting error code 1. We have done everything recommended in our trouble shooting manual. Don’t want a costly repair can you help?

The Problem: Midmark M11 Displaying Error Code E001

In most cases, we are simply told about the Error E001 without any additional detail. Which is fine. And we respond with a laundry list of things that could be causing the problem and start the troubleshooting process.

But in this case, they told us it started happening right after they cleaned it. With the extra detail in this email, we can hone in on the problem with the Midmark M11 Autoclave pretty quickly.

The Cause: The Midmark M11 Water Level Sensor

You can find the water level sensor by Clicking Here

We immediately suspected the Water Level Sensor was causing the problem.

A Picture of the Midmark M11 Autoclave Water Level Sensor

And here is what we think happened: When wiping everything down, the water level sensor in the back of the chamber got wet, and remained that way.

The Midmark M11 Water Level Sensor has 1 wire going to it, and it is a hot wire. In order for a circuit to be complete, you also have to have a ground. When water touches the end of the sensor, it completes the circuit and sends the message back to the PC board that there is sufficient water in the chamber to start the sterilization process.

If the sensor is wet when the cycle is started, the circuit is complete as far as the PC Control Board is concerned and it will skip the fill process and immediately go into the startup phase (heat).

Without any water in the chamber, it will overheat pretty quickly causing the overheat thermostat to cut the power to the heating element, and trigger the E001 error code

Is it Really The Problem?

Verifying the problem could not be easier. Simply start the cycle and watch your display. If it bypasses the Filling process (ie: The LCD Display should say Filling”) and goes straight to the heat up mode instead…..then the Water level Sensor is causing the problem.

In this case, we were told the Midmark M11 autoclave was skipping the filling cycle

And the cure in this case was to simply remove the base tray and cage to get to the sensor, and then dry the sensor with a cloth

Where the Water Level Sensor Is Located Inside the Midmark M11 Autoclave Chamber

As a foot note, had drying the sensor not cured the problem, then the next step would have been to test the Water Level Sensor. You can find the test by clicking here.

They were able to successfully complete the autoclave repair on their Midmark M11, and it did not cost them a dime!

Why Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Fuse Holder Melted

Troubleshooting The Melting Of the Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Fuse Holder

Note: While this is written specifically for the Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave, this article and it’s instructions are applicable for all Tuttnauer Autoclaves that use fuse holders

Picture of the Tuttnauer 2540M Fuse Holder

"If the fuse holder on your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave has melted, it is imperative you determine what caused it to melt before replacing it. Otherwise, replacing the fuse holder is just throwing your money away"

So to get started, let’s think this through: if the fuse holder has melted, and nothing else….then it is highly unlikely heat from the autoclave caused it to melt. The only possible explanation has to be an electrical problem is the source of the excessive heat.

And, there are only 2 possible causes for the fuse holder to get hot enough to melt

1. There is a short somewhere within the electrical system of the autoclave , or
2. You suffered a power surge (or spike) coming in through the wall outlet where the autoclave is plugged in

How to Find a Short in the Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave

Before getting started, the first thing you will want to do is to remove the cabinet from the autoclave, so you have access to all of the internal components & wiring. Then proceed as follows:

• The most likely cause is a short in one or more of the Heating Elements. So start by testing them first (test all four). You can find simple step by step instructions by Clicking Here and scrolling down the page
• Next, you will want to check all of the wiring for broke, charred or loose wires. It is a good practice to give each wire a gentle tug in both directions to locate any breaks or loose wires. Replace or tighten the connections on any defective wiring found

Did a Power Surge (or Spike) From the Wall Outlet Cause The Tuttnauer 2540M Fuse Holder To Melt?

If you are unable to locate any short circuits from the above procedures, then the circuit your autoclave is on most likely experienced a power surge or power spike

And the best thing you can do is to take the necessary steps to prevent it from happening again

• Make sure the autoclave is plugged into a dedicated circuit
• Make sure the circuit has a GFI outlet installed either at the circuit breaker (preferable), or through the wall outlet

A Note about GFI Outlets & Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave

The type of GFI outlets that come in strips and plug into your wall outlet (and the plug from the autoclave is plugged into an outlet on the strip) is not the best case scenario.

We have received many reports of instances where these outlet strips fail to protect the autoclave

What to Do If You Cannot Find the Cause of The Fuse Holder Melting on Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave

If you cannot locate the problem:
1. The heating elements on your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave test out good
2. You did not find any loose or broken wires
3. And if you already have a good GFI outlet installed and it did not trip
then it would be a good idea to visit AllClaveParts for free technical support

3 Reasons For The Statim 2000 Cycle Fault 3

There are 3 reasons the Statim 2000 Autoclave will give the Cycle Fault 3 Error:

  1. There is a problem with the solenoid valve or
  2. There is a problem with the cassette or
  3. There is a problem with the Thermocouple

Statim 2000 Autoclave Cycle Fault 3 -Steam Leaking Around Cassette

If there is steam leaking from around the cassette prior to getting the cycle fault 3, then the solenoid is most likely not the problem.
In this article, we will be addressing when the error code is accompanied with steam leaking around the cassette

4 Tips Why The Statim 2000 Is Leaking Steam around the Cassette

The easiest way to narrow down the problem quickly, is to try using a cassette you know is good. If the problem still exists, then you can skip down to the thermocouple. If the problem goes away, then you know it is something to do with the cassette

If, when operating the Statim 2000 Autoclave you see steam escaping from around the cassette, there are 4 possible causes

  1. The Cassette Seal is worn out and needs to be replaced
  2. The Cassette hinge is malformed
  3. The Cassette has worn out
  4. The Thermocouple has been bent or broken

Statim 2000 Cassette Seal

According to Scican, the manufacturer of the Statim 2000 Autoclave, the Cassette Seal should be replaced after every 800 cycles.

Picture of the Statim 2000 Cassette Seal With Lubricant Offered By

Do not be quick to dismiss the seal as the possible source of the problem because of its appearance. They can look brand new and still be faulty. Over time with the repeated heat up and cool down extremes, the seal will shrink.

The shrinkage is not enough that you can see it, but using a micrometer, the shrinkage can be measured

If you have installed a new cassette seal and steam is still leaking around the cassette, remove it and reinstall it. Be sure to use the liquid soap on the seal when installing it (and at least monthly thereafter). Make sure both little nubs are protruding in each corner (uncovered)

Also make sure the holes in the seal and the rear of the cassette line up

Sometimes, the cassette seal needs to be removed and reinstalled 2 or 3 times before you get it right

Caveat Emptor: It is also possible you are using a defective seal

The Statim 2000 Cassette Hinge is Malformed

When you insert the tab from the top of the cassette into the opening on the bottom cassette, they form a hinge.

When looking at the hinge, the two parts should be close together as shown in the picture below. If the bottom tab (which is the top part of the formed hinge) is arched upwards, you can try realigning it by following the directions you will find by clicking here.

Correct Alignment of the Statim 2000 Cassette Hinge

The Statim 2000 Cassette Has Worn Out

The Statim 2000 Cassette is well made, but over time they will eventually wear out (over years) and will need to be replaced.

Statim 2000 Thermocouple

Picture of Statim 2000 Thermocouple

The end of the thermocouple protrudes inside the rear left corner (as you are facing the autoclave). With a flashlight, look inside the cassette bay. You should see a pin (the end of the thermocouple, and it should be in the center of the opening and point slightly up as shown in the picture below.

Correct Positioning of the Statim 2000 Thermocouple Pin

If the pin is bent or broken off, the thermocouple will have to be replaced

Most of the time, the pin being broken or bent is a result of inserting the cassette upside down (instead of the pin lining up with the hole that allows it to be inserted into the cassette, it meets with metal and bends or breaks)

Any of these Statim 2000 Autoclave repairs are something you should be able to do with the Free Technical Support and Guaranteed High Quality Replacement Parts available from

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