Autoclave Repair Tips

Autoclave Repair Made Simple

OCR Autoclave Repair: The Case of the Mysterious Door Leak

Any time there is a leak around the door on the Pelton Crane OCR Autoclave, everyone automatically assumes it is due to a faulty door gasket

And for the most part, they are usually right

But what if replacing the door gasket doesn’t fix it?

Here is how to find & fix the problem

What To Do If Replacing The Door Gasket Doesn’t Fix the Pelton Crane OCR Steam Leak Around the Door

First, Even if you just replaced it, let’s make sure you did not get a defective (or used) door gasket. Most door gaskets will look like new, even when they are old & well used. The fact of the matter is, they don’t really wear out

The real problem is they will actually shrink a little bit. Not enough that you can notice the shrinkage, but enough to allow steam to get by. So just inspecting the door gasket won’t tell you whether it is good or bad, unless it has a tear in it

Regardless, remove the gasket from the door and make sure the grove it fits in is clean, as well as the mating surface on the cabinet. It doesn’t take much, a little debris can cause it to leak

Also, wipe down the door gasket before re-installing it to remove any debris that may have stuck to it

If you need a new one, click here to make sure you get a new, High Quality OCR Door Gasket

Now try a cycle, and make a note of where the steam is escaping from around the door. Then rotate the gasket & try another cycle

If the steam follows the rotation, then the problem is with the door gasket. Replacing it with a new one should eliminate the problem

But what if the steam leak does not follow the gasket when you rotate it…then what?

Probable Cause

There are several possible causes

  1. Open the chamber door 90°
  2. Lift up on the door
  3. If the door tilts in, or moves, then the hinge pins have worn and need to be replaced. This is the most common problem next to the door gasket. However, if the door is solid and does not move, then go to step 4. You can Click Here For Replacement Hinge Pins.
  4. Remove the cabinet. Towards the front of the chamber, about midway up, there is a U Shaped Bracket on each side that holds the chamber in place as shown in the picture below. Make sure the bolts have not loosened. Make sure the brackets have not slipped from their place. If needed, move brackets back into place and then re-tighten the bolts. Repeat for other side of chamber.

These steps should resolve about 99% of the causes for steam to be leaking around the door on your Pelton Crane OCR autoclave. But, if it doesn’t solve your problem, just let us know

The Case of the Powerless Statim 2000 Autoclave

In our continuing effort to bring you everything you need to troubleshoot & do your own autoclave repair, here is an unusual problem we encountered recently

Despite walking our client through the normal troubleshooting process, he was still unable to get his Statim 2000 to power up.

So, he took the lead and not only did he find the problem, he was able to fix it! And, he was kind enough to share his experience with us, which we are now sharing with you.

The Statim 2000 is Getting Power, but It’s Still Dead….Now What?

After tracing the power from the wall outlet following our “No Power Troubleshooting Guide” (Click Here to see the procedures), our client was able to determine power was flowing all the way to the PC Board

Now, I have to admit, when there is problem with the PC Board on an older Statim 2000 (which appeared to be the case here), we usually encourage people to either buy the Digital Electronics course and try to repair the board themselves (you can view the course offering by clicking here), or to replace the autoclave

But, the Dentist believed it had to be something simple, and he asked a patient of his (who is also a retired electrical engineer) to take a look a look at it.

Where Does It End?

The Electrician first retraced all of the steps we had given him, confirming that there was electricity present from the wall to the Terminal Block on the PC Board, where it simply stopped. There was not any power present anywhere on the board itself

Knowing the power was making it to the board, but not flowing on from there, they knew it had to be the power connections to the board. They placed a jumper wire on the power connections to bridge the connection and tried a cycle. The power came back on and it completed the cycle successfully

The Case of the Powerless Statim is Solved

So, they removed the board from the Statim & inspected the back of the board

Sure enough, they found a broken solder joint where the power lines connect to the board. So, the Dentist got his soldering gun and carefully put more solder in place. He then re-installed the board


Click Here For A Larger Image

After putting everything back together, he ran another test cycle. The power was restored, it completed the cycle, and now the Dentist’s Statim is once again sterilizing his instruments

Had he not taken the initiative, the Dentist would have ended up replacing the autoclave. Even if he sent it off for repair, most repair facilities would have stopped at the board, and not taken the extra step of removing and examining it. They would have simply recommended replacing the autoclave.

Lessons Learned From This True Story

  1. Don’t be afraid to ask for help (and that includes asking us!)
  2. Don’t give up easily. Use logic and your critical thinking skills (if this, then that) to think it through

After all, if the Statim 2000 Autoclave is destined to become a boat anchor anyway, what can you hurt?

Statim 2000 Autoclave Does Not Power Up

It can be very frustrating when you turn on your Statim 2000 Autoclave & nothing happens

But, like all other autoclave troubleshooting, it’s just a matter of knowing where to start to find & fix the problem

We have two set of procedures here, and to find the one applicable to your autoclave, you will need to know which software revision your unit has. Discovering the software revision is fairly simple. Just Click Here and follow the instructions

Once you know the software revision, just find it on this page and follow the directions

No Power To Statim with Software Rev. 3.0 or 4.2

Statim PCB Board 3.0

  1. Verify that there is no display and no green power light
  2. Check outlet to make sure there is power to the outlet (check circuit breaker)
  3. Verify power switch is turned ON
  4. With power switch OFF check all fuses for continuity. If fuse(s) are not continuous, then they have blown and need to be replaced
  5. Turn main power switch ON
  6. Using a voltmeter check for line voltage at bottom two terminals on the left side of the PCB, J1-1 and J1-2. If line voltage is present proceed to step 7. If not check for burnt wiring from power cord to the power switch to the PCB
  7. Check For line voltage on the left side of the two 15 amp fuses. Place one meter lead on the left side of the upper fuse (F1) and one meter lead on the left side of the lower fuse (F2). If line voltage is present proceed to step 8. If not check the PCB for a bad connection between terminal J1-1 and the lower 15 amp fuse (F2) or terminal J1-2 and the upper 15 amp fuse (F1)
  8. Check for line voltage on the right side of the two 15 amp fuses. Place one meter lead on the right side of the upper fuse (F1) and one meter lead on the right side of the lower fuse (F2). If line voltage is present the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is bad. If line voltage is not present recheck the 15 amp fuses or check for a bad connection at the fuse holders

You can find more Statim 2000 Autoclave Repair & Troubleshooting guides by Click Here

No Power To Statim 2000 with Software Revision 2.4 – 2.92 & 6.4

Statim 2000 PCB Board 2.9

  1. Verify that there is no display and no green power light
  2. Check outlet to make sure there is power
  3. Check that power cord is plugged into electrical outlet and back of Statim
  4. Verify power switch is turned ON
  5. With power switch OFF, check all fuses for continuity. If they are not continuous, then the fuse(s) have blown and will need to be replaced
  6. Turn power switch ON
  7. Using a voltmeter check for line voltage at bottom two terminals on the left side of the PCB, J1-1 and J1-2. If line voltage is present proceed to step 8. If not check for burnt wiring from power cord to the power switch to the PCB
  8. Check for line voltage on the left side of the two 15 amp fuses. Place one meter lead on the left side of the upper fuse (F2) and one meter lead on the left side on the lower fuse (F3). If line voltage is present proceed to step 9. If not check the PCB for a bad connection between Terminal J1-1 and the lower 15 amp fuse (F3) or terminal J1-2 and the upper 15 amp fuse (F2)
  9. Check for line voltage on the right side of the two 15 amp fuses. Place one meter lead on the right side of the upper fuse (F2) and one meter lead on the right side of the lower fuse (F3). If line voltage is present the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is bad. If line voltage is not present recheck 15 amp fuses or check for bad connection at fuse holders

Why Pouches remain wet after drying on the Statim 2000 Autoclave

First, it should be noted, handling the pouches when they are wet will compromise the sterility of the instruments being sterilized (the pouches are
permeable and will allow bacteria from your hands to wick through to the instruments)

You can view even more Statim 2000 Troubleshooting Guides on AllClaveParts.com by Clicking Here

There are several possible causes for the pouches being wet after going through the drying cycle on the Statim 2000 Autoclaves

  1. The air filter(s) are dirty. The compressor air filter is located under the round metal plate on the back of the autoclave. There is a screw in the middle of the
    plate holding it in place. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the screw, and then the plate. The filter is made of foam and is shaped like a donut.
    Remove the filter. If the filter is dirty, replace it.
    • Scican (Statim) recommends the filter be replaced every three months

    Newer units also have a Biological Filter. Like the Air Compressor Filter, if it gets dirty, it can impede the air flow and restrict drying. It too should be
    replaced on a regular basis

    • Ensure that cassette is clean and has been treated with Stat Dri™ or Sci-Dry™ (offered by AllClaveParts)
    • The Biological Filter should be replaced every 6 months or 500 cycles, whichever comes first

    Statim 2000 Air Compressor & Biological Filters Picture

  2. The Drain Tube is Restricted. The Drain Tube must run directly to condenser bottle with no dips, loops or kinks.
  3. Pouches are stacked. Pouches should be only 1 level deep. Do not stack them. The air must be able to circulate around the pouches freely
  4. Wire Rack is lying flat. Make sure the wire mesh rack inside the cassette is inverted. This provides a space below the wraps for the air to flow and dry the bottom side of the pouches
  5. Autoclave is not level. Check the Bubble Level on the Statim cabinet. Set the bubble to the 4:00 or 5:00 position by turning the front leveling legs
  6. Airflow is restricted. Check for airflow through the autoclave. While the Statim 2000 is running in the drying cycle remove the exhaust tubing from the top of the waste bottle
    (be careful tubing may be hot). Place tubing into a cup of water, vigorous bubbles should appear in the cup of water. If bubbles do not appear, check
    airflow from compressor to waste bottle.
  7. Air Compressor Is Not turning On. Make sure the compressor is running during the drying cycle. You should be able to hear it running and you can also feel it running by placing
    your hand on top of the cabinet (in line with the air compressor filters)

Statim 2000 Plumbing Diagram

How To Replace The Pelton Crane Delta XL8 Door Insulation Pad

Replacing The Door Insulation Pad Could Not Be Easier With These Simple Instructions

Note: While these instructions are specific for replacing the Delta XL8 Insulation Pad, they are exactly the same for the Delta 8, the Delta Q8, the Validator 8, and the Validator Plus 8. The Pelton Crane Part Number for these models are identical: OEM Part #1539514 (the earliest models had a part number of #0211812)

You can click here to find the replacement Door Insulation Pad for your model autoclave

The Delta XL8 Autoclave has an Insulation Pad tucked away inside it’s door assembly

As its name implies, its function is to help insulate the door. It is a round disk made of a ceramic paper

After years of use, one of two things generally happen:

  1. It gets thinner (or breaks down) and loses some of its insulating capabilities
  2. It sometimes manages to fold in on itself (wrinkles are literally folds

While we do not currently fully understand how, when either of the 2 above conditions above exist, the door can begin to leak during a cycle. The leak is usually water and not steam. So, if you have replaced the door gasket and spacer, and it is still leaking around the door (dripping water from the bottom)…the insulation pad is the most likely cause

Replacing the Insulation Pad is pretty simple and straight forward. The only tools you will need are a couple of wrenches and a screwdriver to complete the procedure

To find the replacement Door Insulation Pad for the Delta XL8 Autoclave, Click Here

Follow these simple instructions to replace the pad

Delta XL8 Door Assembly

How To Remove The Old Insulation Pad From The Delta XL8 Autoclave

The first thing you will need to do is to remove the old pad. To do this:

  1. Remove the door handle by removing the 2 screws as shown in the picture above
  2. As you are facing the inside of the rear open door, pull on the top bar (notice the slots for the pins to move in and out – and the hinge pins on the right that allows it to swing open
  3. After swinging the assembly open, you will see a nut and washer sticking through the center of the plate as shown in the picture below
  4. Remove the nut & washer, slide the disk off and remove the old insulation pad

How To Install The New Insulation Pad

To install the new Insulation Pad, replace the old pad with the new by aligning the hole in the pad with the screw on the plate, and simply follow the above instructions in reverse order

That’s it!

Delta XL8 Insulation Pad Location

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