Autoclave Repair Tips

If you are experiencing heat related problems with your Pelton Crane HP Autoclave, the odds are pretty good you have a faulty heating element.  Here is how to know for sure

The Pelton Crane HP originally had 2 heating elements, rated at 800 watts each. Testing them is simple and something you can do.

How To Test  The Original Pelton Crane  HP 800 Watt Heating Elements

This test consists of measuring the amount of resistance in the element. To do this, first, turn the autoclave off and unplug it from the wall

WARNING: CURRENT MUST NOT BE PRESENT WHEN MEASURING RESISTANCE.

You will need a volt/ohm meter to conduct this test.  The volt/ohm meter doesn’t have to be anything fancy or expensive.  You can get one for less than $20.00  from Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc

Disconnect the wires from the Pelton HP autoclave heating elements so you don’t get a false reading.  Mark the wires so you know which wire went where, so when you complete the test, you can hook them back up correctly and quickly.

Set your volt/ohm meter on 200 ohms (200 NOT 200k). The ohms range is located within the Omega (Ω)(look for this symbol) section of your meter. It is also the area with “k” ranges (ie: 2000k,. 200k, 20K and then 2000, 200).

It doesn’t matter which color probe goes where.   Be sure to test both elements.

The range you are looking for is 16.2 – 19.8 ohms.  If  the readings on your elements are outside of this range, then they are faulty and need to be replaced.

The original 800 watt heating elements on the Pelton Crane HP Autoclave have been replaced with a single 1600 watt element.  So, even if just one is bad, you will need to remove and discard both of them. 

But don’t do it just yet.  Leave them connected until you have the new HP replacement heating element in hand.  This will greatly simplify the installation process and eliminate any confusion over the wiring of the new element

And, don’t be confused when connecting the wires to  the new element.  The old elements had 4 wires and the new element has only 2 terminals. Simply look at  it as though the second element didn’t exist. 

 The two wires on the left become a single wire on the left and the 2 wires on the right become a single wire on the right

Your Pelton Crane HP Autoclave is a true classic, and you have just added a few more years to it’s life !

 Wally
www.AllClaveParts.com
“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

The Water Outlet Strainer on your Tuttnauer EZ series should be cleaned on a monthly basis.

Tuttnauer’s design engineers made cleaning the Water Outlet Strainer on you EZ Autoclave easy.  No need to remove the cabinet to gain access.  No tools or Service Technican required

Just a few simple steps:

Start by unplugging your Tuttnauer autoclave from the wall outlet and allowing the autoclave to cool down before proceeding (the Strainer Cap is located on the exhaust line and gets extremely hot). 

Make sure there is no water or pressure remaining in the Tuttnauer autoclave chamber. 

The Water Outlet Strainer is located on the back of the Tuttnauer autoclave.  There are 4 components to the water strainer:

1. The Strainer Cap
2. A Gasket
3. The Strainer Element
4. The Strainer Housing     

To remove the Strainer Element for cleaning, turn the strainer clamp counter-clockwise.  Remove the cap and the gasket.  Pull the Strainer Element out.

Rinse the Strainer Element under running water.  Use a brush if necessary (a tooth brush works very well).  After the Strainer element is clean, reinstall it, along with the gasket and Cap

Tuttnauer EZ Series Autoclave Troubleshooting

The Low Water Message
(Includes the Tuttnauer EZ9 Tuttnauer EZ10 & Tuttnauer EZ10K)

Possible Causes

• A dirty or shorted Water Electrode
• A clogged water pump or water pump filter
• A clogged water line
• Tuttnauer is improperly leveled
• The Air Outlet Valve is stuck closed
• A leaky door gasket, door bellows, solenoid valve, safety valve, or the air jet is allowing steam to escape at a higher than normal rate
• A power down has occurred and on power up the water electrode tip is dry

Replacing The Tuttnauer EZ9 Autoclave HEPA Filter, Requires Only A Screw Driver And A Few Minutes To Complete

Your Tuttnauer EZ9 autoclave is equipped with an air compressor, which allows you to thoroughly dry your sterilized instruments with the door closed.

The way it works is during the drying stage, the compressor forces air through a HEPA filter and forces the air to circulate through the heated Tuttnauer EZ9 autoclave chamber. 

This process removes any moisture from the wrapped instruments, allowing you to put them to work immediately.

The HEPA filter is a bacteriological filter, which delivers clean, bacteria-free air to the compressor.  How often the autoclave is used and the surrounding environment determine how often the filter should be changed on your Tuttnauer EZ9 Autoclave,

A good rule of thumb is to replace the Tuttnauer EZ9 Autoclave HEPA filter at least every 12 months to ensure maximum efficiency.  Replacing the filter regularly not only insures clean, bacteria free air, it also helps to extend the life of the air compressor

The Tuttnauer EZ9 Autoclave HEPA Filter is mounted in an opening on the right sidewall of the autoclave cabinet; this is to allow easy access for replacing it (See picture above) and something you can easily do

To replace the Tuttnauer EZ9 HEPA Filter, just follow these simple instructions:

1. Remove the securing screws and then the filter cover by turning the cover counter-clockwise until the handle is at a vertical position.

2. Pull out the cover with the filter attached.

3. Disconnect the flexible tube from the filter

4. Replace the filter with a new one connecting it to the flexible tubing.

5. Reassemble the cover and lock it into position by turning it a ¼ turn.

6. Fasten the securing screws.

Tip:  Remove all of the guesswork:  Place a small piece of tape or a label next to the cover of your Tuttnauer EZ9 autoclave with the next scheduled replacement date

Have You Been Told You Need To Replace Your Autoclave Control Board?

What are you going to do when you are told you have to replace your Autoclave Control Board?

Until now, there has always been only 1 remedy to a faulty Autoclave Control Board, and that was to replace it.

Replacement Autoclave Control Boards are very expensive. And on some autoclaves, they are no longer available at all……and you can’t get them at any price. Which means replacing the autoclave.

Most Autoclave Control Boards Are Repairable
If You Know How

We knew there had to be a better way. We knew, in most cases, the Autoclave Control Boards are repairable and with the right instructions, something anyone can do.

So, for the last couple of years, we have been researching and buying a variety of programs to help us solve the Autoclave Control Board dilemma.

Instructions For Repairing The Autoclave Control Board
Needed To Be Simple & Easy To Understand

Most did not meet our philosophy of self-repair because of their complexities and jargon. It had to be something simple enough so almost anyone can do it.

And finally, we found an electronics instructor in England who recorded all of his notes from the “light bulb” moments when, the students could clearly understand the principles & techniques being taught……. and put it all into an incredible ebook.

This program is so good, we use it for virtually any electrical problem we encounter on a daily basis.

So, if you have a problematic, or even nonfunctioning Autoclave Control Board, you can’t ask for a better resource than The Testing Electrical Components Guide.  We highly recommend it

Wally
www.AllClaveParts.com
“Autoclave Repair Made simple”