Autoclave Repair Tips

When You Flip On The Power Switch On Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave & The Power Light Does Not LIght Up, Here is How Find & Fix The Problem

Is Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Plugged In?

Start By Checking to make sure your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Is Plugged all the way into the wall outlet.. Then
make sure it is securely connected to your autoclave.

Do You Have Power Going To The Outlet?

If not, go back to where your circuit breaker panel is and make sure the circuit breaker hasn’t tripped. If it has, reset
the breaker and try turning the power switch back on again

Is The Cord On Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Damaged Or Frayed?

Cords and plugs can break. Through repeated use, they can develop shorts and stop delivering electricity to
your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave.

Fortunately, they are relatively easy to test and to replace

Simply check it for continuity while flexing the cord. If continuity is lost during the
flexing of the cord, it is bad and needs to be replaced.

How To Test The Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Power Switch

The Power Switch on your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave can be defective. A simple Continuity Test is all that
needs to be done here. You should have continuity when the switch is turned on

Has The Circuit Breaker on your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Been Tripped?

Reset breaker. Check for short circuit. If no short
is found, replace Circuit Breaker

Is The Power Light On Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave Burned Out?

If You are getting power elsewhere, then the power light is most likey burned out. Replace The Power Light On
Your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave

You can also test the power light by performing a simple continuity test.

Is There An Open Circuit?

Check all of the wiring for loose, broken or burnt wires on your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave

Hopefully, by now you have located the reason your Power Light Is Not Working
& resolved the problem.

But if you haven’t located the problem, or have difficulty with any of the steps listed here,
or just have questions about your Tuttnauer 2540M Autoclave, please post a reply and we will be happy to walk you through it

Wally
www.AllClaveParts.com
“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

If you have been told your Midmark M11 PC Control Board is Dead, then you were also surely told that the boards are no longer supported, and that replacement boards are no longer available as well.

And you have also been told your only solution is for you to replace your autoclave wtih a new one

Now doesn’t that give you a sinking feeling and a lump in your throat? It’s easy for them to say, but hard for you to swallow. Thousands and thousands of dollars out the window!

There is nothing like Built-in Obsolescence to insure sales in the coming years.

But what if, there was another way? What if you had a choice?

What if you could replace the Midmark M11 PC Control Board with a High Quality, Fully Guaranteed, Professionally Refurbished Board?

And what if you could get this fully refurbished Midmark M11 PC Control Board for less than half the cost of what a new one would have cost you, when they were offering them?

And what if you could replace the Midmark M11 PC Control Board yourself, without spending another dime for the installation?

Well, now you can…..

AllclaveParts is now offering these boards to you, and in keeping with our tradition of “Midmark M11 Autoclave Repair Made Simple”, you also get easy to follow, step-by-step instructions, along with full, free support….. before, during and after the replacement.

It really is a simple autoclave repair you can do yourself. In fact, you will find replacing the Midmark M11 PC Control Board is as easy as replacing a board in your desktop PC.

So when you are approached again with buying a replacement autoclave, you can simply tell them: “No Thanks, I fixed My Midmark M11 Autoclave Myself!”

Wally

www.AllClaveParts.com

“Midmark Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

This was a simple, but unusual problem that was posed to me today

It seems as though the Statim 2000 Autoclave Waste Bottle was overflowing and the Statim 2000 could not complete the sterilization cycle.

At first glance, the client thought all of the water was being dumped into the waste bottle during the cycle
But there is not a direct path between the reservoir and the exhaust bottle so in reality, that is not possible.

To troubleshoot the problem, it is necessary to understand the path and function of the water leading from the reservoir to the exhaust on the Statim 2000 autoclave.

When a program is selected and the start button is pushed, water is taken from the reservoir and sent to the boiler through the Statim 2000 water pump. The boiler in turn converts the water to steam and the steam is then injected into the cassette.

As the steam expands, it pushes on the air inside the cassette. The exhaust then kicks on, removing the air from inside the cassette, forcing it into the exhaust bottle.

During this “purging” process, is when you hear the noise and notice the Statim 2000 exhaust tubing kicking wildly.

After all of the air has been removed, the exhaust is sealed and remains closed until either more air is detected, or the unit enters the vent stage. All of these process are implemented & controlled by the Statim 2000 PC board, based on the feedback the various components involved are sending to it.

After thinking about this process, it made it reasonable to assume that the Statim Waste Bottle was not being emptied periodically, and that is the reason it was full of water.

So, after explaining the cause of the problem, I asked the good Doctor to empty the waste bottle, refill it to the minimum line and try another cycle.

He did, and the Statim 2000 worked perfectly!

The moral of the story is to check the exhaust waste bottle from time to time on your Statim 2000 Autoclave and empty it when needed.

Wally
www.AllClaveParts.com
“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

Are the packs coming out wet after the end of the cycle from your Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave?

Finding and fixing the problem is something you can do and won’t cost you much, if anything at all

If your Delta Autoclave is maintaining pressure and temperature at the proper levels throughout the cycle, but the packs are coming out wet, here is where to start

1. Examine The Load You Are Placing In The Delta Chamber. Break the load into fewer or smaller packs (or wraps)and try another cycle
2. Be Sure You Are Cracking The Door Open About An Inch During The Drying Cycle As Per Pelton Crane’s Recommendations
3. Check The Position Of The Fill Line Filter. The Delta Fill Line Filter is located in the rear of the chamber close to the bottom. Adjust the fill line filter by turning it until it is located in the center of the chamber close to the bottom of the floor. If it is already in the correct spot, you will need to change the filter

The Fill Line Filter is considered a normal preventative maintenance item on the Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave and Pelton Crane recommends replacing the In LIne Filter at least once every 12 months

Best Practice Is To Replace The Fill Line Filter in Your Delta Autoclave At The Same Time You Replace Your Door Gasket And To Always Have A Spare Filter On Hand

If none of the above cures your wet pack problem on your Delta Autoclave, post here and we will be happy to tell you what steps you need to take next

For Even More Free Autoclave Repair Information For Your Pelton Crane Delta Autoclave, visit AllClaveParts.com

Wally

www.AllClaveParts.com

“Pleton Crane Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

If you suspect the Heating Element on your Midmark M7 autoclave is no longer functioning properly, there is a simple test you can peform to know for sure.

This Test consists of measuring the amount of resistance in your Midmark M7 Autoclave Heating Element. You will need A Volt/OHM Meter To Perform This Test. Don’t Worry, You Don’t have To Be A Electrician To Use The Meter

To Test Your Midmark M7 Autoclave Heater, Just follow these simple Step-By-Step instructions:

WARNING – POWER MUST NOT BE PRESENT WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST
1. Turn The Midmark M7 Off & Unplug It From The Wall Receptacle
2. Drain The Reservoir
3. Turn The Midmark M7 On It’s Side To Gain Access To The Access Panel Located On The Bottom Of The Midmark M7 (#3)
4. Remove The Access Panel By Removing The Screw(s) Holding It In Place (#2)



5. Locate The Heating Element Terminals (#8) & Remove The Wire Quick Connects (#7) By Pulling Them Off (DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES-PULL ON THE METAL CONNECTORS)

TIP: Mark The Wires So You Know Which Wire Goes To Which Terminal

6. Set Your Volt/Ohm Meter To 200 In The Ohms Section of Your Meter (200 – NOT 200k)
7. Place The Tip Of Each Probe To Each Terminal (#8) (It Does Not Matter Which Color Probe Goes Where)
8. Now Look At The Reading On Your Meter. For The Midmark M7 Heating Element To Be Good, The Reading Needs To Be Somewhere Between 10.80 and 13.20 Ohms). If Your Reading Is Outside Of This Range, The Midmark M7 Heating Element Is Defective and Needs To Be Replaced. If Your Reading Is Within The Range, It Is Good & Not The Source Of Your Problem

For Even More Free Repair Help, Visit AllClaveParts.com

Wally

AllClaveParts.com

“Autoclave Repair Made Simple”

Ps. Be sure to download the Free Midmark M7 Autoclave Factory Service Manual. It’s the real thing and the one technicans world-wide use.