Statim 2000 Error Code: “CHECK CASSETTE #1”
Note: "Check Cassette" Error Codes were used on the early model Statim Autoclaves, and when your error number is prefaced with "Check Cassette" it means you have an older model.
The newer Statim Autoclaves use "Cycle Fault" Error Codes. While the numerical sequence means the same for some faults, there are deviations. So you need to make sure your Error is Check Cassette 1 before proceeding.
If your error says, "Cycle Fault 1", then you are in the wrong place. We will be posting the "Cycle Fault" errors in the near future. In the meantime, you can contact us to find out what you need to know
What Caused the Error Message "Check Cassette #1"
This error is generated when the cassette temperature failed to reach 95°C in three minutes. This means the boiler is not heating up – Generally caused by no power to the boiler
What do you do when this happens?
In most cases, the Thermal Fuse has blown. The thermal fuse is located under the boiler. The fuse is contained inside the wire insulation, so it looks like a wire…and not a normal fuse.
Simply test it for continuity. To check the thermal fuse for continuity, disconnect the fuse assembly from the main PC board by removing the wire at the J1-3 pin location.
Then measure the resistance of the thermal fuse assembly. An “open” reading signifies the fuse is bad and must be replaced. Be sure to reconnect the wire on the main PC board pin # J1-3
If the Thermal Fuse is good, then you will need to proceed with the next steps you find by Clicking Here
Note: Like any other fuse, you should always have a spare on hand. It is advisable that you order 2.
Here’s the thing…..In the event you have not located the cause for the original fuse to blow in the first place, you could blow the new one as well. So, if you only order 1 and it blows, then you will have order another one and pay shipping again, as well as suffer an even longer downtime.
IMPORTANT NOTE: To avoid damaging the new thermal fuse assembly try to identify the cause of the failure. There are a number of causes for thermal fuse failure. This could be caused by a weak water pump, steam leaks, faulty thermocouple, and or malfunctioning steam generator (also known as the boiler) (which may require cleaning or calibration).
Another Episode from our exciting Statim Autoclave Repair Series
Here is a note we recently received from a client:
“I replaced the seal on my Statim 2000 Monday the 9th of March. It had developed an intermittent whistle while heating. It stops whistling when the sterilizing temperature is reached.
The instrument packages show sterile at the end of the cycle. I replaced the seal partly because the old seal was whistling and partly because the old seal was leaking steam. The steam has subsided but the whistle remains.
What is a probable cause and what do I need to do to stop the intermittent whistle?
Any help would be appreciated.”
We are glad you asked Jack. First, when you notice steam leaking from the cassette, lubricate or replace it immediately. Failure to get rid of the leak can cause major problems….not to mention your sterility can be compromised
While whistling can be an enjoyable thing…..whistling from your Statim Cassette can be a real annoyance….driving you & your staff absolutely crazy
Now let’s find out why this is happening and how to fix it
Here is what we have found is happening in most cases: A piece of debris has gotten lodged inside the Venturi. What?
We will address what the Venturi does in a later article, but for now, just know that it is a constrictor.
The Venturi is located in the rear of the bottom half of the Statim Cassette as shown in the picture below
When debris gets lodged in the path of the Venturi, it can cause it to whistle (as well as result in other problems)
Here is a closer look at the Venturi Plate
Thankfully, the fix is an easy one. Simply blow compressed air into the Venturi hole and throughout the plate (including the ports at the bottom of the plate)
Note: If you are a dentist, the syringe air in your operatory works well for this
Also notice the piece of green gasket stuck below the Venturi plate in the picture above. This is a real example and the piece of gasket was actually baked onto the surface
Make sure to remove any debris and clean the area as well
That’s it, you are done and problem is solved
One more thing: While you have the cassette out and apart, it is a good time to give it a thorough cleaning. While we do not get any promotional consideration for recommending it, we use “Bar Keeper’s Friend” (Bon Ami works equally well) with a nylon scrub pad (made for cleaning Teflon).
It will make your Statim Cassette Look like new again!
In addition to the articles you find here, be sure to visit the troubleshooting section of AllClaveParts.com (Click here and simply select the Make & Model of your Autoclave) for autoclave repair help you can really use Fuses are an important facet to troubleshooting autoclave problems. You need to understand what they do and you need to know how to select the right replacements Fuses in your autoclave, like in any other electrical device, are there to protect your electronics from being damaged by things like electrical shorts and power surges
In addition to the articles you find here, be sure to visit the troubleshooting section of AllClaveParts.com (Click here and simply select the Make & Model of your Autoclave) for autoclave repair help you can really use
Fuses are an important facet to troubleshooting autoclave problems. You need to understand what they do and you need to know how to select the right replacements
Fuses in your autoclave, like in any other electrical device, are there to protect your electronics from being damaged by things like electrical shorts and power surges
We frequently get calls about autoclave fuses. Where one or more have blown and the question is always can they get them locally instead of ordering them from us.
And some of the calls are from people who have already replaced the fuse with replacements they got locally, and are blown out shortly after installing them. This leads them to believe something is causing them to blow….like an electrical short somewhere within the autoclave.
While an electrical short is possible, in most cases the new ones are blowing because they replaced the old one with the wrong fuse
If fuses are all you need, then we do encourage you to buy them locally. By doing so, you can avoid the expensive shipping costs and the even more expensive downtime. But before buying a replacement, you need to know exactly which fuse you need
All of the fuses installed in autoclaves are marked on the silver ends telling what size they are. They will have markings like: 2A 250V.
This means the fuse is rated at 2 Amps and up to 250 Volts. So, going to any hardware store with this rating in hand, you will find what look like suitable replacements. And this is what most folks do.
And they invariably end up with the wrong fuse. But you think, all 2 amp, 250v fuses are the same….right?
What is missing is the fuses reaction time – that is, what happens (how long) before the fuse blows?
All fuses in your autoclave will have one or two letters in front of the amperage rating. These letters are extremely important and tell you what their reaction time is. Not matching the fuses with the proper reaction time is where everyone goes wrong. It is always good to look at the fuses location on the circuit board to make sure you get the right fuse.
If you can’t find your fuses locally, then visit AllClaveParts to find what you need
Let’s take a look at a Tuttnauer Power Supply Board
Sometimes the circuit boards will be marked with the correct amperage ratings and the letters as well as shown below
Let’s take a look at what the readings on your fuse might look like. In this case, the Tuttnauer Power Supply Board is showing a rating of
F 2A 250V
Since we already know what the 2A, 2 50V means, the letter F should be our focus.
So what are these letters and what do they mean?
The first letter(s) (TT, T, M, F, FF) tell you what type of fuse it is and what you should be looking for
- FF = Fast Fast. Very Quick Acting. (also known as Anti Surge)
- F = Fast. Quick Acting (also known as Anti Surge). Typically open in less than 20 ms @ ten times the rated current
- M = Medium. “Normal” or Very Short Delay (Typically open between 50 and 90 ms @ ten times the rated current)
- T = Time. Time Delay or Slow Blow. Typically open between 100 and 300 ms @ ten times the rated current
- TT = Time Time. Long Time Delay or Very Slow Blow.
So, if you were looking to replace the fuse in the Tuttnauer Power Supply Board shown above, you would be looking for a F 2A, 250V fuse: a Fast Acting, 2 Amp, 250 Volt fuse
Almost any electrical supply store in your area should have these fuses. Just make sure you know the reaction time (Letter) of the fuse you are replacing and the length of the fuse as well
Note: We have seen instances where people have simply replaced the fuses with ones with an increased size amperage rating to keep them from blowing.
This is something you should never do! You are putting your safety and your autoclave at risk
Years ago, when I was growing up, most homes had a fuse box instead of a circuit breaker (yes, I am that old). Everyone kept extra fuses on hand in case one or more failed. And that is still a good practice today for your autoclave.
The next time you place an order for autoclave repair or maintenance parts for your autoclave from us, order some extra fuses….and you will always be prepared!
We got a call last week from a dentist who told us the Air Compressor on his Statim 5000 was making a loud noise. He also told us the instruments he was sterilizing were coming out wet
Both of these items together tell us there is definitely a problem with his Compressor.
The dentist ran a cycle and when it reached the drying phase, he held the phone close to the compressor so we could hear the noise it was making.
The noise sounded an awful lot like the sounds the water pump makes on the Statim 5000 autoclave when first starting a cycle.
With almost a thousand dollar price tag for the Air Compressor, he was frantically looking for another option.
After quizzing him about his maintenance routine, we found it had been a very long time since he had changed the biological filter (which is supposed to be replaced every 500 cycles – or 6 months, whichever comes first).
The biological filter is on the autoclave to remove any remaining living organisms from the air before sending it on into the cassette…. keeping the sterilized instruments sterile
The Biological Filter works very well, and will eventually collect enough debris to become clogged, if not replaced on a regular basis. And that is what we suspected in this case
So we had him remove the Biological Filter, and connect the two hoses going to it together with a ¼ inch barbed fitting. Then, we had him run a cycle.
Instead of spending $1000.00 on a new compressor all he needed was a $47.00 Biological Filter
The end result: The noise had gone away, and the instruments came out dry. Problem solved!
Note: You should not run the Statim 5000 Autoclave without the Biological Filter in place. We prescribed this procedure of bypassing it only to verify the filter was the problem.
Had he continued to run the autoclave without replacing the filter, his compressor would have soon broke down and would have required replacement
"On Your Statim 5000 Autoclave, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"
You can find everything you need for preventative maintenance of your Statim 5000 autoclave by clicking here
The moral of the story is: Do not cheap out on the Preventative Maintenance of your Statim 5000 autoclave (or any other autoclave for that matter)
While it may seem these parts & procedures are only to keep revenue rolling in for the seller, it is not the case.
Like any other piece of equipment you have, preventative maintenance should be done on a regular basis, to keep it running at it’s optimum and to greatly extend its lifespan.
You can Click here for even more free troubleshooting guides & technical support
Pressure Leaks are the most common cause of the error code C983 on newer model Midmark M11 autoclaves (M11-020 thru -022 with Serial # prefixes RS, RT, RV & V). A pressure leak is any leak of steam, air or water within the autoclave. Here are the four most common causes:
Pressure Leaks & Error Code C983
But what exactly is a Pressure Leak?
A faulty Door or Dam Gasket
Pressure Leaks are the most common cause of the error code C983 on newer model Midmark M11 autoclaves (M11-020 thru -022 with Serial # prefixes RS, RT, RV & V).
A pressure leak is any leak of steam, air or water within the autoclave. Here are the four most common causes:
If you can see steam coming out anywhere around the door, the door or dam gasket is the cause and they both should be replaced
Midmark recommends replacing both gaskets at least every 12 months. Find the High quality M11 Door & Dam Gaskets by Clicking Here
A faulty Air Valve
A properly functioning Air Valve removes air from the chamber. When it senses air, it opens and allows air from the chamber to pass through to the Water Reservoir
When it senses steam, it closes and seals the chamber. When the Air Valve is defective on the Midmark M11 Autoclave, it either will not close, or will not open, or opens to soon.
A faulty Vent Valve
The Vent Valve is designed to open at the end of the cycle, allowing the steam to enter the condensation coil inside the Water Reservoir
Once the steam travels through the coil, it is cooled down enough to return the from a gaseous state, back into the liquid state (water)
A faulty Fill Valve
The fill valve opens at the beginning of the cycle when the display reads “FILLING,” and then shuts off and seals when water touches the Water Level Sensor located inside, and to the rear of the chamber
While a problem with the Door & Dam Gasket is obvious and easy to see, finding a leaking valve will require a little more investigation, but is not difficult.
How To Find The Faulty Valve on Your Midmark M11 Autoclave
The first thing you will need to do is remove the left side panel (as you are facing the autoclave (the side where you put the water in). You can find the instructions for removing the panel by Clicking Here.
Once the panel is removed, you will see the two reservoirs, the larger reservoir is the one you are interested in. On top of the reservoir is a lid. Remove the lid by sliding it to the rear and get it out of the way.
Inside the reservoir, you will see the condensation coil. There is a hook on the end of the reservoir that sticks out above the water line. The end of that hook is one of the places you are going to be watching (a dental mirror can come in handy here). The other place is the bottom of the reservoir
Now, start a cycle and when the temperature gets ~240 degrees
First, look for bubbling coming from the bottom of the reservoir. If you see bubbles, then the fill valve is defective and needs to be replaced.
If you do not see bubbles, then start watching the end of the hook on the coil
You are looking for steam or water to be coming out of the coil. If you see steam coming out, then the air valve is defective and needs to be replaced. But, if you see water, then the vent valve is defective and needs to be replaced
Once you have found the pressure leak and replaced the defective part(s)on your Midmark autoclave, the error code should go away and the operation returned to normal